Travelling Worm

A bookworm's travelogue

Tag: travel

  • A quick crawl around Oahu, Hawaii

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Making our way from Sydney to Chicago, we spent yesterday on Oahu, the most populated of the Hawaiian islands and home to the city of Honolulu. It’s not often that this worm admits to a mistake, but I do confess that up to a few weeks ago I thought Honolulu was on the island of Hawaii. If prodded (which is probably not a good thing to do to a worm) I may even admit that I assumed Waikiki was an island itself. But no, it’s a suburb of Honolulu.

    We landed at Honolulu airport, spent a couple of hours getting lost in the city and surrounds, then found our hotel in Waikiki. Early next morning we enjoyed a couple more hours getting lost in the city, before finding the road that leads east. We drove across the island to Kaneohe on the east coast, then north to Kahuku, then back inland via Haleiwa and Wahiawa. We narrowly missed Pearl Harbor and caught our Chicago flight by the skin of our teeth.

    The TC did not brush her hair all day.

    My impressions? Honolulu is a city much like any other, and caters very well to the TC’s proclivity for getting lost. The east coast of the island is gorgeous. I want to go back and see the rest of it.

    The book I’m in

    The Midnight Road, by Tom Piccirilli. Satisfyingly weird, this book starts with the words, “Flynn remembered the night of his death more clearly than any other in his life”. I’m in the middle of the book, and wishing the TC would find the time to move me on a few pages so that I can see what happens to Flynn and the ghosts that populate his life.

    Recommended airline

    Hawaiian Airlines is friendly and efficient, and keeps the fuss of US travel down to a minimum.

    The photos

    Me at Kualoa Point, on the east coast of Oahu. With a palm tree, of course:

    Honolulu, seen from one of the surrounding hills:

    Palm trees, of course, outside our hotel in Waikiki:

    The military presence on the island is noticeable. This number plate, spotted in a Honolulu parking garage by the TC once removed, is a case in point:

    When we were in the queue at the airport waiting for the security checks, there was an army dude in full military togs in front of the TC. One of the officials leaned in and informed him very respectfully that he could take the express queue next time.

    A military aircraft and a palm tree, of course:

    The velvety striated range of hills that lines the east coast:

    Mokolii Island, seen from Waikane on the east coast of Oahu:

    A closer view of Mokolii, also known as Chinaman’s Hat island because of its shape:

    Kualoa Point:

    A Red Crested Cardinal, pretty but beady-eyed and not a worm’s best friend:

    The TC admiring the view. Yes, it’s a bit gusty. And as I remarked before, she did not brush her hair all day. I think this preyed on her mind. I was careful not to remark on her dishevelled state, even after she boarded the aeroplane that evening.

    Another gorgeous beach somewhere on the east coast. Probably Laie Bay. Applause to the photographer – no palm trees in close view:

    Water. I steered clear, of course, but the TC has no such qualms:

    Is a worm nowhere safe? First the Red Crested Cardinal, and now a Peahen lying in wait in a stairwell at Waimea Botanical Gardens. Neither bird is native to Hawaii, I might add:

    Me, making a tactical retreat from a Peacock:

    A steep hillock in Waimea Valley:

    A Hawaiian temple, or heiau, at Waimea. This one is dedicated to Lono, the god of agriculture. It’s called the Hale o Lono, which means “house of Lono”, and was built between 1470 and 1700 AD.

    The colourful bark of a Mindanao gum tree, spotted at Wahiawa. This gum tree is native to western Pacific islands such as Papua New Guinea and the Phillipines. Not, surprisingly, to Australia. It was introduced into Hawaii in the late 1920s.

    At this point we remembered that we had a plane to catch, and hare-tailed it out of there. Alas, we spotted some signs to Pearl Harbor and decided to drop in. We got lost (again). We were definitely in the area:

    By the time we saw the official signs we were already late:

    We did go down that route, but discovered that seeing Pearl Harbor is a big deal involving boat trips and the abandonment of all bags, purses, large cameras, and what have you.

    So we got on a plane to Chicago instead. More on that in my next post.


  • The Basin, Palm Beach, NSW Australia

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    The TC’s mum is in town! Yesterday the TC took her mum and the family to The Basin, near Palm Beach just north of Sydney. The Basin is one of the bays in the Hawkesbury waterways, on the shores of the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. To reach it, catch a 20-minute ferry ride from Palm Beach.

    This worm heard that the outing would involve a ferry crossing and some splashing around in a lagoon. Being a pulp fiction kind of guy, water is anathema to me. So I stayed at home and sent Naught, my trusty stunt worm, instead. You may remember Naught, from his debut in my post about Shelly Beach.

    Naught’s impressions? If you’re looking for a relaxing day out of Sydney, where natural beauty and serenity vie with the kookaburras for your attention, The Basin is beaut.

    Recommended eating

    Take a picnic lunch. There are no restaurants or shops at The Basin, but you can grill food on the barbecues provided.

    The book I’m in

    After Shock, by Sam Fisher. A good action story, the second in the series about the E-Force rescue team.

    Let me tell you a secret: This worm was comfortably ensconced in Philip K. Dick’s book, Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? But the TC hoiked me out of there, saying her brain is too lazy for that book at the moment.

    The photos

    Naught, my stunt double, taking a dip in the sparkling waters of The Basin:

    Naught taking a dip

    Palm Beach Wharf:

    Palm Beach Wharf

    Heading out from Palm Beach across an arm of the Hawkesbury River, destination The Basin. Don’t be deceived by the halo. This is not Saint Wordsworm, but Naught who has already donned his protective coat:

    Naught on the prow of the ferry

    The heads and hills of the Hawkesbury River waterways:

    The Hawkesbury River waterways

    Fellow wayfarers:

    A yacht sailing past

    Bennets Wharf, the ferry stop before The Basin:

    Bennetts Wharf

    The entrance of The Basin’s lagoon, seen from the ferry:

    The Basin's lagoon

    The ferry approaching The Basin Wharf:

    The ferry

    Jonathan waits at The Basin Wharf to greet the travellers:

    The Basin Wharf

    Wallabies abound at The Basin. This mother has a full pouch. The pink cross struts are the feet of the little joey inside the pouch:

    A wallaby with a joey in her pouch

    Another wallaby on the shores of the lagoon:

    A wallaby under a tree

    A kookaburra takes an interest in the picnic:

    Kookaburra

    A bird’s eye view. Will ya look at that beak! At this stage even a stunt worm is well advised to take cover:

    Kookaburra close up

    That’s all for today, dudes.


  • San Diego, California

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC spent a few days in San Diego last week, taking a well-earned rest after our hard work in Long Beach. San Diego is bigger and more vibrant than this worm expected. It’s very like the other bits of California that we’ve seen, in that the air is bright and the roads are wide. There’s some Mexican influence, but not as much as this worm was expecting. The city centre (“downtown”) is quite flat and is right on the sea shore. There are lovely little hills all round, housing Balboa Park, the zoo and La Jolla.

    My impressions? Seaside prettiness, big-city architecture, high tech industry and a bit of military action combine to make San Diego an interesting place to visit.

    Travel tip

    Take a coach and harbour tour to get the big picture, then pick the areas that you want to see more closely. The TC decided that she’d seen enough of La Jolla from the bus. This worm concurred.

    Recommended accommodation

    The Bristol Hotel in downtown San Diego. It’s close to the harbour, the restaurants and the trolley buses. Service is very warm and friendly, and the rooms are spacious and comfortable.

    Recommended restaurant

    O’Brothers in the Gaslamp district of San Diego. It’s on the second floor of Horton Plaza. Three of the staff members welcomed the TC, one by one, as she walked in. Even from the depths of my book in her bag, I could feel her heart go pitty-pat! She declared her meal (a Cobb’s salad) to be delicious, and there was a lot of it. Fast food, yes, but of good quality. The TC made a point of finding and complimenting the manager.

    The book I’m in

    The ELI Event, by Dave Gash. I’m at the beginning of chapter 18, and wishing the TC would hurry up and move me on. This is a great read! You may think my opinion is swayed by the fact that Dave Gash is a friend of mine and the TC’s. But no. This worm is unbending and unbendable when it comes to matters of literary review. Are you looking for science fiction, time travel, artificial intelligence, great characters and action packaged as a good solid yarn? Then this is the book for you!

    The photos

    Me, Peg and Hugs at the entrance to the Old Town State Historic Park in San Diego:

    San Diego, California

    Who’s that with me and Peg, I hear you gasp? That’s Hugs the Koala. She’s a cuddly sort and a true blue Ozzie, although, funnily enough, she joined us in Long Beach. This worm has grown quite attached to her, and she to me. I’m guessing she’s a keeper in the TC’s little clan of hangers-on.

    San Diego, California

    The Old Town Market in the State Historic Park, complete with bell tower, cactus and pointy succulent:

    San Diego, California

    The San Diego Old Town was established in 1769, the birthplace of California, our coach driver informed us.

    The TC was quite taken with the blue sky peeking through the tower of the Immaculate Conception church:

    San Diego, California

    El Campo Santo, an old graveyard in the Old Town, now happy with children running through it. In 1993, the city used ground-penetrating radar to discover these old graves under Linwood Street:

    San Diego, California

    The tourist section of the Old Town:

    San Diego, California

    The Coronado Bridge, spanning the gap between the mainland and Coronado Island. The coach driver told us that 277 people have committed suicide by jumping off this bridge:

    San Diego, California

    The Hotel Del Coronado, 1887, built in 11 months!

    San Diego, California

    A fighter aircraft over the hotel, providing poetic contrast in this idyllic setting:

    San Diego, California

    Coronado beach:

    San Diego, California

    Another guardian looming out of the gloom:

    San Diego, California

    Me and the TC took a boat tour of North Harbour. Lo and behold, there was Jonathan, gliding over the city:

    Jonathan over the city

    North Harbour is awash with naval activity:

    Navy in North Harbour

    A navy boat with a dolphin on board, heading out for a training session:

    A dolphin aboard a naval boat

    The dolphin in training with the navy personnel:

    Dophin in training

    A fighter jet taking off on North Island:

    Fighter jet taking off

    Me and Peg, about to board the USS Midway. This aircraft carrier is the longest commissioned in the US navy. It is now a museum:

    USS Midway

    On the flight deck, a jet attached to the launching mechanism:

    A plane attached to the launching mechanism

    A tale of woe follows. After an hour or so on board, the TC decided she wanted to get off.

    Off the ship. Leave the boat. Go to the mainland. Disembark. She uttered all of those phrases, and more, to one of the official guides on the boat. He was standing at a spot near one of the planes, looking uninterested. And instead of showing us the quick exit, he sent us on a round-the-corridors trip into the ship’s innards.

    When the TC emerged pink and flustered at the exact some spot, let’s call it spot A, the same dude professed not to have understood her the first time, and sent her to the end of a queue of people waiting to do the “Island Tour”. When she protested, he assured her that this was the only way off. “Just go all the way down there,” he said.

    So we did, bypassing irate queue-hoggers, only to be told we were in the wrong place. A second dude took us through a cordonned-off door, up some stairs and through some corridors, and ushered us out with a flourish – right back at spot A, where Dude 1 was still to be seen!

    At this point, the TC bless her cotton socks burst into tears. Amidst the floods, she remonstrated that there must be a way off, there should be a big “EXIT” sign, this is ridiculous, the only available sign says “EXIT, DO NOT ENTER” … and so on.

    At last, Dude 2 got the general flow of things and took us to an unmarked lift, which took us down into the bowels of the monster and after a few more corridors led to the gangplank. It took us more than half an hour to get off that boat.

    So, here’s another travel tip for free: If you’re ever on the USS Midway, plot your exit route at each level and don’t believe anything the official guides tell you.

    A corridor on the USS Midway:

    Corridor on the USS Midway

    Pointing the way to the battle dressing station, a sober reminder of the crew’s activities of yore:

    sign to battle dressing station

    Me peering through a porthole:

    Yours truly at a porthole

    Phew, back on dry land and in the open air at last. The Santa Fe Amstrak station, right near the harbour:

    Santa Fe station

    Inside Santa Fe station:

    Inside the station

    The San Diego trolleys are made by Siemens in Düsseldorf, West Germany:

    Trolley

    Looking up Broadway from the docks towards downtown San Diego:

    Broadway

    Now, this is how to design an interesting, attractive shopping mall. Horton Plaza:

    Horton Plaza

    Inside Horton Plaza:

    Horton Plaza

    Some people have big feet and some people have huge feet. A polar bear at San Diego Zoo:

    Polar bear at the zoo

    And some people know how to pose for a pretty picture:

    Giraffes at the zoo

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • Long Beach, California

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC are in Long Beach, California. The TC is attending a conference on technical communication. I’ve come along for the ride.

    So far we’ve seen the beach, which is long, and some gracious old buildings, which complement the new entertainment complexes, and lots of friendly people.

    The TC had a strange encounter on our second day here. As so often happens, she found herself wandering around in places where she’s not supposed to be. At the moment, and perhaps perpetually, the footpaths in Long Beach are in disarray due to some major road reconstruction. The TC went wandering down the causeway, dodging barricades and warning signs, in search of a more interesting route to the shops. She strolled past the only other soul in this bleak area, then did a double take when she noticed that the other woman was weeping. Quite forgetting that she was in California, she turned back and asked the passer by, “Are you OK?” This question elicited a long tale of woe, revolving around the fact that the other poor soul’s “number is 8” and that the number 8 had not been on a good footing since the 8th of August 1968. The TC, bless her cotton socks, took it all in her stride, commiserated and assured the woman that the wheel of fortune will keep turning and will come back round to her in good time. Then they parted ways, each to continue meandering more or less contentedly on their life’s journey.

    I myself stayed wisely silent in the safety of my book.

    My impressions? Long Beach is smaller and more drab than this worm expected. Still, it has that great open feeling that I’ve noticed in other parts of California.

    Travel tip

    Don’t speak to strangers unless you’re ready for them to talk right back at you.

    Recommended accommodation

    Hyatt Regency, 200 South Pine Avenue in Long Beach. This is the conference venue. It’s plush and convenient, with friendly and efficient service. Photo below.

    The book I’m in

    Portent, by James Herbert. It’s an unsettling coincidence that the TC chose to start reading this book just before the awful series of earthquakes and tsunamis that have hit Japan, and so soon after the earthquakes in New Zealand and the disasters in other parts of the world. Portent is a somewhat mystical book, weaving natural disasters into an extended Gaia philosophy built upon James Lovelock’s ideas. This worm recommends the book for a good fast read in James Herbert’s best style.

    The photos

    Me at Long Beach:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    A building that graces one end of the beach:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    Another gracious building, in Pine Street:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    Below is the Hyatt Regency on Pine Street. The waterway around the hotel is part of the Rainbow Lagoon Park:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    More of the Rainbow Lagoon Park, round behind the hotel. In a fast action scene in the film “Last Action Hero”, starring Arnold Schwarzenegger, this park masqueraded as the La Brea Tar Pits:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    Most days, Arnie is not around and the park is home to a quieter, more contemplative crowd:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    Here’s a view from the hotel window showing Shoreline Village, a tourist’s delight of food, sweets, T-shirts and lovely water scenes:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    Moving slightly to the left of the above view, you can see the rest of Shoreline Village, as well as the Queen Mary which is now a hotel and tourist ship, and another ship at dock:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    The TC and I trickled down to Shoreline Village to soak up the sights:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    Me looking back at Long Beach proper, from the boardwalk at Shoreline Village. Or, I should say, from just off the boardwalk. As you can see, the TC does not hesitate to dump me in the dirt if it serves to make a better snapshot:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    A blog post about California would not be complete without a sunset, preferably with some palm trees tangled up in it:

    Long Beach, California
    Long Beach, California

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC have just returned home after a week-long trip to New Zealand’s South Island. It was a trip of adventure, beauty and magnificence. For this worm, the high point was a trip up Fox Glacier on the island’s west coast.

    The TC and her clan did the “Fox Trot”, a half-day walk up to and over the glacier. This worm went along for the ride. I now have a certificate to prove my prowess at glacier scaling. Photos below.

    My impressions? Bizarrely beautiful shapes. Cold. Danger enough to add a delicious tingle of fear.

    Travel tip

    Take a few layers of clothing. You’ll feel warm while walking through the forest on the way to the glacier, freezing cold in the arctic wind on top of the glacier, and various temperatures in between.

    Recommended accommodation

    Westhaven Motel in Fox Glacier Township. The manager is delightfully hospitable, the broadband access is free, the rooms are spacious and comfortable. This was the best accommodation of our New Zealand trip.

    The book I’m in

    Clean Cut, by Lynda La Plante. A good cop and crim yarn, with a gritty ending.

    The photos

    Me approaching Fox Glacier:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Mark Wordsworm nearing the foot of Fox Glacier

    Our guide described the hazards of the cave at the foot of the glacier and the dangers of getting too close:

    A view of the glacier from above, showing how it curves around a corner and up the further slope. There’s more over the horizon too, though we didn’t see it:

    Climbing Fox Glacier, New Zealand
    A view of Fox Glacier from above

    Zooming in to see two tour groups already on the ice:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Two tour groups on Fox Glacier

    Now it’s our turn. The TC hung back to take this shot of our group climbing up the stairs hacked into the ice. See the weird and wonderful shapes the ice has formed:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Our group climbing up Fox Glacier

    I made it! Me on the glacier:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Mark Wordsworm, conqueror of glaciers

    Shapes and colours in the ice:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Shapes and colours in the ice on Fox Glacier

    Sorbet, anyone?

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    Looking down into a crevasse, with a glacial stream of water at the bottom:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    The TC venturing down into the crevasse:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    The TC venturing into a crevasse

    At the bottom of the crevasse, beautiful and scary:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    A crevasse on Fox Glacier

    Me and Peg, perched on a stone and leaning up against the TC’s boot. Ah yes, did I neglect to mention that Peg was there too? I’m avoiding contact with the ice itself. Nasty wet cold stuff, not very compatible with cardboard folk. Note the crampons strapped to the TC’s boot, inelegant but functional:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Me, Peg and the TC's crampon-fortified boot

    Our guide carving a path for us:

    Every now and then we heard the clink and clatter of a chunk of ice breaking off somewhere in the ice below us. Scary? Oh yeah! Every now and then the TC stuck her stick into a stream or a hole, and the stick went down and down and down as far as it could reach. Scary? Oh yeah! We stood on platforms, stepped to the next one and looked back, to see we’d been standing on a thin sheet of ice with not much below. Fun? Oh yes indeed.

    Looking up towards the point where the glacier turns a corner:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    As far as we could see:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    The furthest point we could see when up on the glacier

    Climbing down off the glacier:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Climbing down off Fox Glacier

    Walking away from the glacier. The flat valley floor and extremely steep sides are characteristic of a valley carved by a glacier. In past centuries, Fox Glacier has been much lower down and created the valley we see here:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Walking away from Fox Glacier along the valley floor

    This is to certify that Mark Wordsworm did visit the mighty Fox Glacier, did brave the inclemency of the South Westland climate and did endure the rambling discourses of the guides:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Certificate of this worm's glacier-conquering prowess

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • The Chasm and a couple of Kea parrots in New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    In my earlier post I wrote about our trip to Milford Sound, on New Zealand’s South Island. On the road to Milford Sound is The Chasm, well worth seeing and hearing in its own right.

    The forest surrounding The Chasm:

    The Chasm and a couple of Kea parrots in New Zealand
    New Zealand native forest at The Chasm on the way to Milford Sound

    The Chasm is a gnarled and whorled channel dug into the rock by a river. The TC started this video with a view of some people, to give perspective, then moved down to the river, to try and show the size of the gorge and the swirling rock patterns:

    You may encounter a Kea parrot on your way to and from Milford.This one was patrolling the car park when we arrived at The Chasm:

    The Chasm and a couple of Kea parrots in New Zealand
    A Kea parrot at The Chasm

    The TC, of course, cooed and clucked over the Keas.  This worm stayed safely in a book in the TC’s bag.

    This Kea strutted up the roadside barrier while we waited our turn to go through the Homer tunnel on the Milford road:

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • The seventh most dangerous road in the world

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    In my previous post, aptly titled Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand, I promised to publish a video of us driving down Skipper’s Canyon, the world’s seventh most dangerous road. Eat your heart out, Jeremy Clarkson! Here it is:

    The speed limit on that road is 100 km per hour. We did it at an average of 20 km per hour, and that felt plenty fast enough. We were in a Land Rover Defender. Our guide assured us that ordinary two-wheel drive cars could manage the road too. Hah, says this worm.

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    Today’s travel notes

    Queenstown, the action capital of the world. That’s what our guide told us during one of the many activities and adventures that me and the TC have tackled in the last few days. Queenstown, on the South Island of New Zealand, is a pretty little town with lots to offer for a few days of fun and action.

    My impressions? Sunlight glowing on tawny hills. Cloud shadows gliding across a turquoise lake. People flying through treetops, skimming over water, scooting along the shore and jumping off anything that doesn’t move. It’s all happening.

    Travel tip

    Ziptrek. Just do it.

    Recommended accommodation

    Pounamu Apartments.

    The book I’m in

    Bad Luck and Trouble, by Lee Child. Jack Reacher gets together with some old buddies from his army unit. It’s like having a number of Reachers all in one book.

    The photos

    Me and Mary Moa:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    The TC offering me to the last surviving Moa

    In the centre of Queenstown stands the last remaining Moa bird. Mary. Naturally, the TC attempted to feed me to the giant bird. Mary Moa declined with due disdain:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Mary Moa's suspicious eye

    Queenstown is beautiful. A lake runs through it:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Queenstown seen from Skipper's Saddle

    At the bottom of Lake Wakatipu a giant’s heart pumps. That’s the reason why the water surges one way and then the other, regular as clockwork every fifteen minutes, causing a twenty centimetre rise in the level of the lake on each shore in turn. The seiche, they call it. There’s no scientific explanation for the phenomenon yet, so the story of the giant’s heart is as good as any other.

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown

    Jonathan was there too:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Jonathan on the shore of Lake Wakatipu

    We zoomed along the shores of Lake Wakatipu on Segways:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Zooming along with Segway on Q

    We zipped through the treetops on flying fox cables:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Flying fox tour of the treetops with Ziptrek

    The flying fox tour is run by Ziptrek. If you’re ever in Queenstown, do it. The cables and platforms are attached to trees like this:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Cables and platforms built into Douglas fir trees

    If you have the time, or the nerve, to look while zipping through the treetops, this is the view you’ll see:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    View from the treetops

    We panned for gold on the famous Arrow River:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Gold panning equipment

    Sifting out all the pebbles and white sand:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Panning for gold

    That’s the gold, right there! See it?

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    A speck of gold

    Poke the gold to make it stick to your finger:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Get the gold onto your fingertip

    There it is. No, really:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Goldfinger

    Add it to the rest of your stash. Carefully:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Collecting the gold

    You’re rich:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Gold gold gold

    To celebrate our new found wealth, we enjoyed a high tea:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    High tea on the Land Rover bonnet

    Then we drove down the seventh most dangerous road in the world, into Skipper’s Canyon. This worm survived to tell the tale! I’ll post a video of the drive, just as soon as I can get it loaded onto YouTube. Motel broadband is not all its cracked up to be. This worm is sure you’re all waiting on tenterhooks. Ah, the suspense!

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • The glow worms of Te Anau

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC are in Te Anau on the South Island of New Zealand, and this worm has just had a rare treat. We went to visit a colony of worms! In fact, a whole boatload of people crossed a lake and clambered through narrow caves and over rushing torrents, just to visit a colony of worms. I was tempted to set up shop and boast my own prowess as a fellow worm. The TC persuaded me that she could not do without me, so here I am, back in a small motel room, writing up my glowing (ahem) praise of the Te Anau glow worms.

    My impressions? Lots of eye candy and a very professionally presented tour. Go Real Journeys tour operators.

    Travel tip

    Not much happens in Te Anau. It’s just a place to go to other places from.

    Recommended accommodation

    Amber Court Motel, on Quintin Street in Te Anau. Friendly service, clean and close to the action.

    The book I’m in

    Bad Luck and Trouble, by Lee Child. Jack Reacher gets together with some old buddies from his army unit. It’s like having a number of Reachers all in one book.

    The photos

    Me glowing bright on the floor of a New Zealand Beech forest. Some mushrooms and berries were there too:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    The glowing travelling worm

    On the way into Te Anau, this road sign tickled the TC’s sense of humour (she’s a technical writer, you know):

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Signpost in Te Anau

    Heading off on the boat across Lake Te Anau:

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Touches of Tolkien, heading off across Te Anau lake

    Reaching the shores where the glow worms have set up camp:

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Native Beech forest meets lake

    The glow worms are deep inside a series of caves carved by a rushing stream. The word “Te Anau” means something like “cave with swirling water” in ancient Maori. When Europeans first came to New Zealand, in the late nineteenth century, they had no idea these caves existed. Evidently they only found them in 1948. This is the entrance to the caves:

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Entrance to the glow worm caves

    We did not take any photos inside the caves. That would disturb the worms and spoil the experience for the other people on the tour too. Instead, the TC snapped some pictures of the explanatory video that the tour company, Real Journeys, showed us. This is an infrared image of a glow worm setting up its fishing lines to catch insects for food:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    Infrared image of glow worm and its fishing lines, by Real Journeys

    Here’s another glow worm:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    A glow worm, by Real Journeys

    Travelling through the caves and grotto is eery and beautiful. You sit in a small boat (twelve passengers only) and the guide pulls you along via guide ropes. It’s pitch black, except for the patterns, swirls and patches of bright dots above your head. The water roars all round you. Every now and then you sense another boat passing close by, or a lighter patch of rock just above your head. The boat bumps into the rock. The water roars. Worms glow. Drips drop.

    At one stage, I happen to know, the TC grabbed a nearby hand to pull herself back into reality.

    Back outside, the Beech forest is velvety:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    A velvety cover of moss

    It’s weird too. Look at the fungus on this fallen tree:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    Fungus on a fallen tree in the Beech forest outside the glow worm cave

    A closer look:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    A closer look at the fungus

    Back in Te Anau after a fast boat ride across the lake, the TC spotted a huge tree stump that had an interesting shape. I don’t think she had quite succeeded in pulling herself back to reality yet, because she decided that if she lay down on the stump, she and the stump would look just like a butterfly. So she did it:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    The TC and a tree stump combining to form a butterfly

    Silly TC. Only worms like me and the glow worms can grow wings.

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC are back in San Francisco for a flying visit. The TC is working here for a week, so this worm has tagged along as usual, keeping her book warm and generally looking after her. Today, Sunday, is her only day off on this trip. So we all got in to a Smart Car and drove over the Bay Bridge, to see what happens outside San Francisco.

    My impressions? Oakland and Berkeley are worth the drive, if you have time on your hands, if only to see the Bay Bridge and the view of SFO from the other side.

    Travel tip

    Smart Cars are larger inside than you may think.

    Recommended restaurant

    Pakwan restaurant, corner of O’Farrel and Jones streets, San Francisco. Quite outstanding. See photos and words below.

    The book I’m in

    Gone Tomorrow, by Lee Child. The TC hasn’t had much time for reading, so I’m still stuck in the same book as when I wrote my previous post. No matter. I’m quite attached to the book!

    The photos

    Me with Peg and the food at the Pakwan restaurant:

    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland
    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland

    The Pakwan restaurant is on the corner of O’Farrel and Jones streets, San Francisco. It offers “Pakistani-Indian authentic cuisine”. The space itself is not all that impressive, but the food is simply delicious. The price is very reasonable too.

    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland
    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland

    Me with the Smart Car that we hired for the day. I’m attached somewhat precariously (as usual) to the aerial:

    lackadaisical
    lackadaisical

    Me and Smarty Tyres are parked in the grounds of the University of California, in Berkeley. Here’s one of the attractive buildings on campus:

    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland
    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland

    Next we drove down to Oakland. Surprise, Jonathan was there! Here he is, admiring the view from Oakland docks of the mist coming down over San Francisco:

    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland
    San Francisco, Berkeley and Oakland

    That’s all for today dudes.