Travelling Worm

A bookworm's travelogue

Category: New Zealand

  • Christchurch, New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 36-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    I’m fond of New Zealand. It’s my opinion that the people are honourable and forthright. Last weekend, me and the TC took a two-day trip to Christchurch on New Zealand’s South Island. With around 380,000 inhabitants, Christchurch is the second-largest city of New Zealand after Auckland in terms of population.

    Ten years ago, Christchurch and surrounds were hit by two earthquakes. The first quake was a magnitude 7.1 in September 2010. The second quake in February 2011, though smaller (magnitude 6.2), caused far more damage to an already weakened city. Aftershocks continued throughout the year.

    Reading a factual account of the 2011 earthquake is like reading a horror story. The ground below the city turned to sludge and squirted up into the streets. Buildings that had survived the 2010 quake succumbed to the second one, with devastating results. 185 people died. Parts of the city were closed down for years while people worked to make them safe.

    Today, when you stroll the city streets, all is calm and peaceful. Children roll by on bicycles. People enjoy ice creams beside the river. A historic tram trundles past with tourists beaming through the windows. You’d be forgiven if you didn’t notice much amiss. But the amount of empty ground strikes you as strange, even if subconsciously. You wonder why there are so many gravel-covered plots governed by a temporary-looking Wilson Parking sign. You notice the buildings that look on the verge of falling down. Some have jagged cracks in the masonry, bolted together with metal plates.

    I came away with feelings of peace and respect for the city and its people.

    The book I’m in

    A Shimmer of Hummingbirds by Steve Burrows. This is my first taste of the birder murders. It’s good. Try one!

    Travel tips

    Take the time to absorb the calm and peace of the city.

    Recommended restaurant

    Bacon Bros Present Shaka Bros, Oxford Terrace, Christchurch. It’s a hamburger joint with a good choice of burgers for all. The service is friendly and professional.

    The photos

    Me overlooking the ruins of a building in central Christchurch:

    I don’t know whether the building was a victim of the quake. It seems likely. Currently there’s a water-filled hole in the ground with the building’s supporting structure emerging to provide roosting places for the birds. The site is fenced off, with viewing points for those who want to see what’s behind the high fence.

    Two seagulls enjoy the quiet:

    A pigeon surveys the city from the top of a concrete pillar:

    A block away, Christchurch’s heritage tram click-clacks through a picturesque street of restaurants and shops:

    A junction of the tram line, with people waiting at the tram stop on the left (around the pillar, beyond the hanging clothes):

    The lovely ChristChurch Cathedral, looking so pretty despite the damage from the earthquakes:

    The cathedral was built between 1864 and 1904. It has suffered earthquake damage in 1881, 1888, 1901, 1922, 2010, and the year of earthquakes: 2011.

    The front face of the cathedral is currently open to the elements, due to damage during the February 2011 earthquake and subsequent shakes. This is the wall where the round rose window used to be:

    The tower and spire used to be on the left of the main hall. The tower has been demolished after earthquake damage and search-and-rescue efforts:

    Wikipedia shows how the church looked in 2006. This is what’s left of the spire now:

    A forlorn piece of the cathedral lies on the paving:

    But life goes on. Reconstruction of the cathedral is under way. Bringing back the bells:

    Meanwhile, the people of Christchurch get on with it:

    Other buildings are still under repair too:

    The Avon River / Ōtākaro runs through the city:

    People stroll the streets and ride the tram:

    Down in the port of Lyttelton, iron bands hold earthquake damage at bay:

    Dire warnings of danger protect the unwary:

    An atmospheric shot from a tidal beach on the Christchurch peninsula:

    That’s all for today, folks.


  • Cathedral Cove and Hahei Beach, New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark (I haven’t aged at all since I first wrote this introduction) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC, plus the TC’s other travelling companion, are on New Zealand’s North Island. We spent a bit of time exploring Cathedral Cove, Hahei Beach, and the routes from the one to the other.

    My impressions? Rock, sand and sea, in perfect harmony.

    The book I’m in

    Rat Run, by Gerald Seymour. A mix of crime, terrorism and psychology. I’m looking forward to finding out what happened to make the hero the way he is.

    Travel tip

    The walk from Cathedral Cove carpark to the cove itself will probably take you less time than the sign-posted 45 minutes. The TC did it in under half an hour (one direction).

    Recommended restaurant

    Hahei Beach Café, 3 Grange Road, Hahei 3591, New Zealand. The food is good, although not fancy. The service is friendly and efficient.

    Recommended accommodation

    Pauanui Pines Motor Lodge, 174 Vista Paku, Pauanui. A restful lodging with welcoming hosts. Be aware that the nearest supermarket closes at 6.30pm. Any others are far away, so stock up as soon as you arrive.

    The photos

    Me at the entrance to Cathedral Cove on New Zealand’s North Island:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    You can only get to Cathedral Cove on foot or by boat. The closest car park is about half an hour’s walk away (though the signposts declare the walk to be 45 minutes). We chose to walk from the carpark to the beach.  It’s an easy stroll along a well-kept path, with views over the sea and bush.

    Here’s the view from the Cathedral Cove carpark, at the start of the walk:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    Here’s another view of the entrance to Cathedral Cove at the end of the walk, unadorned by this worm’s noble form:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    The entrance is an open-ended cave leading to Cathedral Cove from the next-door Mare’s Leg Cove. Walking through the cave onto the beach:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    This imposing rocky pinnacle is called Te Hoho:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    A view from the other side of Te Hoho, with a bird fortuitously in the shot:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    Looking back at the entrance from the other side, on the water at Cathedral Cove:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    Jonathan was there too, although a little less sure of himself than is his wont. Perhaps his equanimity was disturbed by the frothy ecstasy of the approaching wave:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    A typical New Zealand tree skeleton stands sentinel on the beach:

    Cathedral Cove, New Zealand

    Rather than walking back to the carpark, we took a water taxi from Cathedral Cove to Hahei Beach. Here’s the water taxi after we disembarked at Hahei Beach:

    Hahei Beach

    Then we walked from Hahei Beach back to the carpark, which takes about 20 minutes. Here’s a view of Hahei Beach from the walking path:

    Hahei Beach

    And the sea through the trees:

    Hahei Beach

    A view from the other side of the lagoon and Tairua Harbour, where we lodged at Pauanui:

    Pauanui

    That’s all for today, folks.


  • Sign of the times at bookshop, Tauranga, New Zealand

    Being partial to books, and knowing my readers are too, I can’t resist the humour of this signboard, spotted outside a bookshop in Tauranga, New Zealand:

    Sign outside bookshop, Tauranga

    A sign of the times?

    That’s all for today, folks.


  • Driving Creek Railway, Coromandel, New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark (I haven’t aged at all since I first wrote this introduction) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    The TC and her travelling companion are travelling on New Zealand’s North Island. This worm is here too, to keep them on track and ensure good reading habits.

    We took a ride on the Driving Creek Railway, outside the little town of Coromandel. The train is small, just high enough to sit in. Each bench can seat two adults side by side. It’s a beautiful, interesting ride, up steep slopes from the lower station to the playfully-named Eyefull Tower at the top. (Faithful readers may notice that this worm does appreciate a good pun.)

    To get up the slopes the train goes through a series of zigzags and spirals. Every now and then the driver reverses up one leg of a zigzag, or gets out of the train and walks to the other end to change directions.

    My impressions? An engineer’s dream brought to life.

    The book I’m in

    Rat Run, by Gerald Seymour. A mix of crime, terrorism and psychology. I’m looking forward to finding out what happened to make the hero the way he is.

    Travel tip

    It takes longer than you expect to get from A to B in New Zealand.

    Recommended restaurant

    Driving Creek Café, 180 Driving Creek Rd, Coromandel 3506. It’s a cosy restaurant combined with a second-hand book store. The people are welcoming, and they prepare the food with flair and skill. Photos below.

    Recommended accommodation

    Pauanui Pines Motor Lodge, 174 Vista Paku, Pauanui. It’s not close to Coromandel or the Driving Creek Railway, but it’s a restful lodging with welcoming hosts. Be aware that the nearest supermarket closes at 6.30pm. Any others are far away, so stock up as soon as you arrive.

    The photos

    Me and the Driving Creek Railway train:

    Driving Creek Railway

    The video below is taken from on board the train, as it leaves the lower station. You’ll see people in the engineering workshop wave as we leave. There’s also a view on one of the slightly scary bridges (viaducts) that carry the track across gorges and gaps:

    The next video includes a zigzag. To get up the hill, the train stops at the end of a track and reverses up the next leg of the zigzag. Below the train you can see the section of track that we’ve just travelled. It’s an impressively steep climb.  At the top, the engineer gets out of the train to switch the track, then we move forward again. The zigzag track is visible below the train.

    The third video includes one of the short, narrow tunnels on the track. The video starts as we come to the end of a reversing section. The engineer gets out to switch the track, then gets back in and says “Tunnel three, everything inside please”. He mentions the pottery and artwork on the sides of the track as we approach the tunnel, and the bush environment after exiting the tunnel:

    The train, unembellished by this worm’s attractive person:

    Driving Creek Railway

    At the top station is the playfully-named Eyefull Tower:

    Driving Creek Railway

    The view from the top is lovely:

    Driving Creek Railway

    One of the pottery artworks that stud the banks along the way:

    Driving Creek Railway

    A reversing point:

    Driving Creek Railway

    A closer view of the notices on the wall:

    Driving Creek Railway

    One of the reversing points is on a rather scary platform:

    Driving Creek Railway

    My (probably adrenalin-fuelled) delight in the view from the platform made the scariness worthwhile:

    Driving Creek Railway

    Looking across the carriage at the view on the other side:

    Driving Creek Railway

    Switching tracks:

    Driving Creek Railway

    Back at the lower station, ticket office and engineering workshop:

    Driving Creek Railway

    It’s worth taking the short bush walk down the side of the station, to see more eccentric bits of art and hear the birds singing in the trees. A sign clearly tells you when you’ve gone far enough:

    Driving Creek Railway

    After the ride, we stopped for a meal at the Driving Creek Café:

    Driving Creek Café

    It’s cosy, and it has books, which make it a winner in this worm’s eyes:

    Driving Creek Café

    That’s all for today, folks.


  • Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC have just returned home after a week-long trip to New Zealand’s South Island. It was a trip of adventure, beauty and magnificence. For this worm, the high point was a trip up Fox Glacier on the island’s west coast.

    The TC and her clan did the “Fox Trot”, a half-day walk up to and over the glacier. This worm went along for the ride. I now have a certificate to prove my prowess at glacier scaling. Photos below.

    My impressions? Bizarrely beautiful shapes. Cold. Danger enough to add a delicious tingle of fear.

    Travel tip

    Take a few layers of clothing. You’ll feel warm while walking through the forest on the way to the glacier, freezing cold in the arctic wind on top of the glacier, and various temperatures in between.

    Recommended accommodation

    Westhaven Motel in Fox Glacier Township. The manager is delightfully hospitable, the broadband access is free, the rooms are spacious and comfortable. This was the best accommodation of our New Zealand trip.

    The book I’m in

    Clean Cut, by Lynda La Plante. A good cop and crim yarn, with a gritty ending.

    The photos

    Me approaching Fox Glacier:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Mark Wordsworm nearing the foot of Fox Glacier

    Our guide described the hazards of the cave at the foot of the glacier and the dangers of getting too close:

    A view of the glacier from above, showing how it curves around a corner and up the further slope. There’s more over the horizon too, though we didn’t see it:

    Climbing Fox Glacier, New Zealand
    A view of Fox Glacier from above

    Zooming in to see two tour groups already on the ice:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Two tour groups on Fox Glacier

    Now it’s our turn. The TC hung back to take this shot of our group climbing up the stairs hacked into the ice. See the weird and wonderful shapes the ice has formed:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Our group climbing up Fox Glacier

    I made it! Me on the glacier:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Mark Wordsworm, conqueror of glaciers

    Shapes and colours in the ice:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Shapes and colours in the ice on Fox Glacier

    Sorbet, anyone?

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    Looking down into a crevasse, with a glacial stream of water at the bottom:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    The TC venturing down into the crevasse:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    The TC venturing into a crevasse

    At the bottom of the crevasse, beautiful and scary:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    A crevasse on Fox Glacier

    Me and Peg, perched on a stone and leaning up against the TC’s boot. Ah yes, did I neglect to mention that Peg was there too? I’m avoiding contact with the ice itself. Nasty wet cold stuff, not very compatible with cardboard folk. Note the crampons strapped to the TC’s boot, inelegant but functional:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Me, Peg and the TC's crampon-fortified boot

    Our guide carving a path for us:

    Every now and then we heard the clink and clatter of a chunk of ice breaking off somewhere in the ice below us. Scary? Oh yeah! Every now and then the TC stuck her stick into a stream or a hole, and the stick went down and down and down as far as it could reach. Scary? Oh yeah! We stood on platforms, stepped to the next one and looked back, to see we’d been standing on a thin sheet of ice with not much below. Fun? Oh yes indeed.

    Looking up towards the point where the glacier turns a corner:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand

    As far as we could see:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    The furthest point we could see when up on the glacier

    Climbing down off the glacier:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Climbing down off Fox Glacier

    Walking away from the glacier. The flat valley floor and extremely steep sides are characteristic of a valley carved by a glacier. In past centuries, Fox Glacier has been much lower down and created the valley we see here:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Walking away from Fox Glacier along the valley floor

    This is to certify that Mark Wordsworm did visit the mighty Fox Glacier, did brave the inclemency of the South Westland climate and did endure the rambling discourses of the guides:

    Climbing Fox Glacier in New Zealand
    Certificate of this worm's glacier-conquering prowess

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • The Chasm and a couple of Kea parrots in New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    In my earlier post I wrote about our trip to Milford Sound, on New Zealand’s South Island. On the road to Milford Sound is The Chasm, well worth seeing and hearing in its own right.

    The forest surrounding The Chasm:

    The Chasm and a couple of Kea parrots in New Zealand
    New Zealand native forest at The Chasm on the way to Milford Sound

    The Chasm is a gnarled and whorled channel dug into the rock by a river. The TC started this video with a view of some people, to give perspective, then moved down to the river, to try and show the size of the gorge and the swirling rock patterns:

    You may encounter a Kea parrot on your way to and from Milford.This one was patrolling the car park when we arrived at The Chasm:

    The Chasm and a couple of Kea parrots in New Zealand
    A Kea parrot at The Chasm

    The TC, of course, cooed and clucked over the Keas.  This worm stayed safely in a book in the TC’s bag.

    This Kea strutted up the roadside barrier while we waited our turn to go through the Homer tunnel on the Milford road:

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • Cruising down Milford Sound, New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC spent a day in Milford Sound, on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island. Milford Sound is actually not a sound, but a fjord. The difference is that a sound is carved out by water and then back-filled by the sea, whereas a fjord is carved out by a glacier and then back-filled by the sea. A fjord typically has a flat bottom and very steep sides, while a sound has a v-shaped bottom and sloping sides.

    We took a boat trip that set off from the bottom end of the fjord and headed up the southern side towards the sea, turned at the mouth and then returned along the northern side of the fjord. The TC chose a “Nature Cruise” rather than a “Scenic Cruise”. A nature cruise is on a smaller boat, that gets you closer to the water and also closer to the towering mountains that form the banks of the fjord. We got so close that we could touch the land. We even took a shower under a couple of the magnificent waterfalls that crash down the mountains all round.

    My impressions? Milford Sound is magical. Awesome. This worm tries to avoid using that word, but it works here. The drive from Te Anau is beautiful too. Awesome indeed.

    Travel tip

    Drive to Milford Sound yourself, rather than taking a bus tour. It gives you more time to look around and to stop when you like.

    Recommended accommodation

    Amber Court Motel, on Quintin Street in Te Anau. There’s only one hotel in Milford itself, and it was fully booked. The Amber Court Motel offers friendly service, and is clean and convenient.

    The book I’m in

    Bad Luck and Trouble, by Lee Child. Jack Reacher gets together with some old buddies from his army unit. It’s like having a number of Reachers all in one book.

    The photos

    Me cruising down Milford Sound:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand

    The drive to Milford is stunningly beautiful. This worm fears he will run out of adjectives and adverbs before he can do justice to the majesty of the views all round. So let’s let the pictures speak for themselves.

    It’s mid summer in New Zealand, but many of the peaks are covered in snow:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Snow-capped mountains on the way to Milford

    Winding rivers and low-lying cloud marked our early-morning drive:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Rivers and cloud on the way to Milford

    Cloud drifting off a snow-shrouded giant:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Cloud streaming away from a snow-shrouded peak on the way to Milford

    A view from the boat on Milford Sound:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Two boats on Milford Sound, dwarfed by the scenery

    Looking back down Milford Sound, with the 160m-high Bowen Falls on the left:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Looking into Milford Sound with Bowen Falls on the left

    A closer look at Bowen Falls, with some kayaks and rowers providing perspective just left of middle bottom:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Bowen Falls, with three kayaks and people at middle left

    Another glacier-formed valley, butting onto Milford Sound, with a waterfall and pleasing play of light:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Light and shade with waterfall in Milford Sound, and a cruise boat giving perspective

    Unusually for Milford Sound, the weather is bright and sunny. The TC, bless her cotton socks, professed herself a bit disappointed. She had been hoping for mist-induced mystery and glimpses of mountain giants and frost-breathing waterfalls straight out of Tolkien. So she was very pleased with the above shot.

    Waterfalls all over the place:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Waterfalls in Milford Sound

    Heading into the fjord towards the Milford Sound harbour, looking back at Harrison Cove:

    Cruising through Milford Sound, New Zealand
    Looking back towards Harrison Cove in Milford Sound

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • The seventh most dangerous road in the world

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    In my previous post, aptly titled Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand, I promised to publish a video of us driving down Skipper’s Canyon, the world’s seventh most dangerous road. Eat your heart out, Jeremy Clarkson! Here it is:

    The speed limit on that road is 100 km per hour. We did it at an average of 20 km per hour, and that felt plenty fast enough. We were in a Land Rover Defender. Our guide assured us that ordinary two-wheel drive cars could manage the road too. Hah, says this worm.

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    Today’s travel notes

    Queenstown, the action capital of the world. That’s what our guide told us during one of the many activities and adventures that me and the TC have tackled in the last few days. Queenstown, on the South Island of New Zealand, is a pretty little town with lots to offer for a few days of fun and action.

    My impressions? Sunlight glowing on tawny hills. Cloud shadows gliding across a turquoise lake. People flying through treetops, skimming over water, scooting along the shore and jumping off anything that doesn’t move. It’s all happening.

    Travel tip

    Ziptrek. Just do it.

    Recommended accommodation

    Pounamu Apartments.

    The book I’m in

    Bad Luck and Trouble, by Lee Child. Jack Reacher gets together with some old buddies from his army unit. It’s like having a number of Reachers all in one book.

    The photos

    Me and Mary Moa:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    The TC offering me to the last surviving Moa

    In the centre of Queenstown stands the last remaining Moa bird. Mary. Naturally, the TC attempted to feed me to the giant bird. Mary Moa declined with due disdain:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Mary Moa's suspicious eye

    Queenstown is beautiful. A lake runs through it:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Queenstown seen from Skipper's Saddle

    At the bottom of Lake Wakatipu a giant’s heart pumps. That’s the reason why the water surges one way and then the other, regular as clockwork every fifteen minutes, causing a twenty centimetre rise in the level of the lake on each shore in turn. The seiche, they call it. There’s no scientific explanation for the phenomenon yet, so the story of the giant’s heart is as good as any other.

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown

    Jonathan was there too:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Jonathan on the shore of Lake Wakatipu

    We zoomed along the shores of Lake Wakatipu on Segways:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Zooming along with Segway on Q

    We zipped through the treetops on flying fox cables:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Flying fox tour of the treetops with Ziptrek

    The flying fox tour is run by Ziptrek. If you’re ever in Queenstown, do it. The cables and platforms are attached to trees like this:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Cables and platforms built into Douglas fir trees

    If you have the time, or the nerve, to look while zipping through the treetops, this is the view you’ll see:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    View from the treetops

    We panned for gold on the famous Arrow River:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Gold panning equipment

    Sifting out all the pebbles and white sand:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Panning for gold

    That’s the gold, right there! See it?

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    A speck of gold

    Poke the gold to make it stick to your finger:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Get the gold onto your fingertip

    There it is. No, really:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Goldfinger

    Add it to the rest of your stash. Carefully:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Collecting the gold

    You’re rich:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    Gold gold gold

    To celebrate our new found wealth, we enjoyed a high tea:

    Adventures in Queenstown, New Zealand
    High tea on the Land Rover bonnet

    Then we drove down the seventh most dangerous road in the world, into Skipper’s Canyon. This worm survived to tell the tale! I’ll post a video of the drive, just as soon as I can get it loaded onto YouTube. Motel broadband is not all its cracked up to be. This worm is sure you’re all waiting on tenterhooks. Ah, the suspense!

    That’s all for today dudes.


  • The glow worms of Te Anau

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 25-year-old bookmark and can proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC) .

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC are in Te Anau on the South Island of New Zealand, and this worm has just had a rare treat. We went to visit a colony of worms! In fact, a whole boatload of people crossed a lake and clambered through narrow caves and over rushing torrents, just to visit a colony of worms. I was tempted to set up shop and boast my own prowess as a fellow worm. The TC persuaded me that she could not do without me, so here I am, back in a small motel room, writing up my glowing (ahem) praise of the Te Anau glow worms.

    My impressions? Lots of eye candy and a very professionally presented tour. Go Real Journeys tour operators.

    Travel tip

    Not much happens in Te Anau. It’s just a place to go to other places from.

    Recommended accommodation

    Amber Court Motel, on Quintin Street in Te Anau. Friendly service, clean and close to the action.

    The book I’m in

    Bad Luck and Trouble, by Lee Child. Jack Reacher gets together with some old buddies from his army unit. It’s like having a number of Reachers all in one book.

    The photos

    Me glowing bright on the floor of a New Zealand Beech forest. Some mushrooms and berries were there too:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    The glowing travelling worm

    On the way into Te Anau, this road sign tickled the TC’s sense of humour (she’s a technical writer, you know):

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Signpost in Te Anau

    Heading off on the boat across Lake Te Anau:

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Touches of Tolkien, heading off across Te Anau lake

    Reaching the shores where the glow worms have set up camp:

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Native Beech forest meets lake

    The glow worms are deep inside a series of caves carved by a rushing stream. The word “Te Anau” means something like “cave with swirling water” in ancient Maori. When Europeans first came to New Zealand, in the late nineteenth century, they had no idea these caves existed. Evidently they only found them in 1948. This is the entrance to the caves:

    The glowworms of Te Anau
    Entrance to the glow worm caves

    We did not take any photos inside the caves. That would disturb the worms and spoil the experience for the other people on the tour too. Instead, the TC snapped some pictures of the explanatory video that the tour company, Real Journeys, showed us. This is an infrared image of a glow worm setting up its fishing lines to catch insects for food:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    Infrared image of glow worm and its fishing lines, by Real Journeys

    Here’s another glow worm:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    A glow worm, by Real Journeys

    Travelling through the caves and grotto is eery and beautiful. You sit in a small boat (twelve passengers only) and the guide pulls you along via guide ropes. It’s pitch black, except for the patterns, swirls and patches of bright dots above your head. The water roars all round you. Every now and then you sense another boat passing close by, or a lighter patch of rock just above your head. The boat bumps into the rock. The water roars. Worms glow. Drips drop.

    At one stage, I happen to know, the TC grabbed a nearby hand to pull herself back into reality.

    Back outside, the Beech forest is velvety:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    A velvety cover of moss

    It’s weird too. Look at the fungus on this fallen tree:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    Fungus on a fallen tree in the Beech forest outside the glow worm cave

    A closer look:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    A closer look at the fungus

    Back in Te Anau after a fast boat ride across the lake, the TC spotted a huge tree stump that had an interesting shape. I don’t think she had quite succeeded in pulling herself back to reality yet, because she decided that if she lay down on the stump, she and the stump would look just like a butterfly. So she did it:

    The glow worms of Te Anau
    The TC and a tree stump combining to form a butterfly

    Silly TC. Only worms like me and the glow worms can grow wings.

    That’s all for today dudes.