Travelling Worm

A bookworm's travelogue

Category: 4wd

  • Sixteen Mile Jeep Track, Victorian High Country

    In our recent travels around the Victorian High Country, me and Beetle the Jeep drove the Sixteen Mile Jeep Track (also called the Sixteen Mile Jeep Road). Although this track can be tricky in the wet, it’s not very challenging when dry. The forest and countryside are beautiful, well worth the drive.

    Here’s a taste of the track:

    Would you like to explore more of the Victorian High Country? I cordially invite you to crawl around a few of the tracks that we followed:

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  • Huts of the Victorian High Country

    In this post: Join me on a crawl around the mountain huts of the Victorian High Country in Australia.

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    In our recent travels around the Victorian High Country, me and the TC visited several of the area’s well-known mountain huts. The huts vary from a basic four-walls-and-a-roof structure to quite a solid affair with furnishings. Most of them were built to offer shelter to walkers, cattle folk, and others who might be caught out by the unpredictable weather of the highlands. Some are named for the families who lived in them, like Lovick’s Hut.

    I’ve written a separate blog post about the most famous hut of all: Craig’s Hut, from the movie, The Man from Snowy River.

    The book I’m in

    The Phenomenon of Man by Pierre Teilhard de Chardin. I’m chewing my way through this momentous work, savouring it a piece at a time.

    Travel tips

    If at first you don’t spot the dunny (that’s Australian for toilet), take a walk and look again. Most campgrounds and picnic areas have a long-drop.

    From the sublime to the ridiculous… a dunny on the Paradise Falls track:

    Recommended accommodation

    Camping is the best option for a trip around the Victorian High Country. It’s hard to predict where you’ll find yourself at the end of each day. Most likely, you won’t be anywhere near a hotel.

    Luckily, the campgrounds are well laid out and most have a toilet, albeit a long-drop. Here are the campgrounds we stayed at.

    Seven (count ‘em: 7) days camping in a row. That’s a record for yours truly:

    • Day 1 (18 February): The campground near Craig’s Hut. Elevation 1,450 metres. It was cold, even in the middle of the Australian summer. This worm recommends a thick book to cuddle up in.
    • Day 2 (19 February): A camping site on Mount Howitt. Elevation 1,600 metres. It was even colder that night, due to some wind and an early morning mist. The TC, bless her thick cotton socks, wore leggings, gloves, two T shirts, two soft jackets, and a large Dutch jacket, and huddled down into her sleeping bag.
    • Day 3 (20 February): Eaglevale campground near Dargo. Those who aren’t made of cardboard had a refreshing dip in the Wonangatta river.
    • Day 4 (21 February): Black Snake Creek campground, again on the banks of the Wonangatta River. The non-cardboard folks took another swim in the river.
    • Day 5 (22 February): Castleburn Creek campground on Dargo Road.
    • Day 6 (23 February): Hinnomunjie Bridge campground, on the far side of Omeo.
    • Day 7 (24 February): Taylor’s Crossing in the Nunniong area. The TC, bless her cotton socks, spotted her first Gang-gang Cockatoos here.

    What about food? What about the pretty berries?

    This worm recommends that you bring all your supplies when travelling the lesser-known roads of the high country. People in the know can snack off bush tucker, but beware: don’t eat anything unless you’re sure it’s good for humans. Some of our party were keen to try these Dianella berries. But not all Dianellas are edible!

    The photos

    Me at the Washington Winch on Nunniong Road near Moscow Villa Hut:

    Yours truly is nicely in focus. That’s how I like it.

    Ah, you want to know about the winch too?

    The Washington Winch was powered by steam, and built in Seattle, USA, to haul timber up steep slopes.

    Here’s the winch hook, which hangs above the track a few metres from the engine:

    And now, on to those huts.

    Craig’s Hut

    If you’ve seen the movie, The Man from Snowy River, then you’ve had your breath taken away by the beauty of the mountain views from Craig’s Hut. Canny readers will spot yours truly on the window sill of the hut in the above photo. To find your breath again, read my separate blog post about Craig’s Hut and The Man from Snowy River.

    Bindaree Hut

    Pikes Flat Hut

    Pike’s Flat Hut was one of the more dilapidated structures. It had horse feed inside, and thistles (an introduced weed in Australia) outside.

    Bluff Hut

    We stopped at Bluff Hut for lunch and a stroll. The hut was quite substantial, a place I could imagine myself sheltering in if the weather got bad.

    Lovick’s Hut

    Lovick’s Hut is another substantial, liveable structure.

    Howitt Plains Hut

    Wonangatta Hut near Bryce’s station

    This hut had an attractive, sturdy sleeping platform.

    Black Snake Creek Hut

    This hut and the nearby camping area are on the banks of the Wonangatta River.

    Moscow Villa Hut

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  • Blue Rag Range Track, VIC

    In this post: Blue Rag Range Track near Dargo in Victoria, Australia: the track, the views, and our route to get there.

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC recently spent a week and a half in the Victorian High Country, a landscape of mountains and valleys in the state of Victoria, Australia. On 23 February, we tackled a bucket-list four-wheel driving track in the area: Blue Rag Range Track.

    The book I’m in

    Lathe of Heaven by Ursula K Le Guin. Every time this worm gets into a book by this author, I’m astounded at the cleanness of her style and the smartness of her plots. This book is no exception.

    Recommended accommodation

    Hinnomunjie Bridge campground in Omeo Valley, Victoria. The site is well laid out on the banks of the Mitta Mitta river, with clean toilets and clear grassy areas to pitch your tent.

    Recommended restaurant

    Dargo Hotel in Dargo.

    Travel tips

    Try to avoid pitching your tent on a slope. The TC, bless her cotton socks, kept waking up with her feet hanging over the end of the bed and a big empty space at the top of the bed. She finally worked out that she was sliding down thanks to the slope.

    The photos

    Me at the trig point at the top of Blue Rag Range Track (elevation 1,700 metres / 5,580 feet):

    Observant readers will notice the trophies stuck to the trig tower, by people who’re proud to make it to the top. We didn’t leave a trophy, but it is indeed a great feeling to have made this trip.

    Observant readers will also notice that it was windy up there! This worm strikes a jaunty pose nonetheless, with my tassel horizontal and a firm grasp from a friendly hand.

    Hyper-observant readers will notice Peg skulking in the book at bottom right. Peg makes occasional appearances in my posts, her firm grip on reality keeping me grounded. But even Peg wasn’t strong enough for the gale at the Blue Rag Range trig point.

    The track

    It took us three and a half hours (12:30pm to 4pm) to drive the track itself, with a one-hour lunch break and stops for photographs.

    At the start of the track is a steep mound with a hole at its crest, ready to trap the unwary vehicle. Most people choose to go round:

    Another video shows the approach to the trig point at the top of the track:

    Friendly locals in Dargo told us that it’s unwise to venture beyond the trig point. Those who do will almost certainly need help recovering their vehicles, and the Dargo police are inundated with calls for help from drivers who don’t realise the risks.

    The views from the track are stunning, with mountain ranges all round:

    Much of the track runs along the top of the ridge:

    A sign post marks the track part-way along, surrounded by white tree skeletons and scrubby grass:

    Our route

    We started the day by fuelling up in Dargo. This is one of the cars in our convoy:

    The Dargo Hotel offers a good feed. Here’s Beetle the Jeep, lined up and ready to go:

    We left Dargo in mid-morning, following Lind Avenue along the banks of the Dargo River, then Dargo High Plains Road to the start of the track.

    A sign post shows the start of the Blue Rag Range Track on Dargo High Plains Road:

    After reaching the Blue Rag Range trig point, we turned round and went back to Dargo High Plains Road, continuing north to the B500.

    We camped overnight at Hinnomunjie Bridge campground on the banks of the Mitta Mitta river in Omeo Valley. This beautiful fire barrel was made by one of our travelling companions:

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  • Craig’s Hut, The Man from Snowy River

    In this post: Craig’s Hut in Mount Buller — the hut was first built as a temporary set for the movie, The Man from Snowy River, and is now a serene place to visit in the Victorian High Country.

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Craig’s Hut is one of several mountain huts that you can visit when touring the Victorian High Country, Australia. The huts are all different, some basic and some quite solid and well established. Most of them were built to offer shelter to walkers, cattle folk, and others who might be caught in the sometimes wild weather of the highlands. Some of the huts are named for the families who lived in them, like Lovick’s Hut and Fry’s Hut.

    Perhaps the most famous of them all is Craig’s Hut, named after a character in the movie, The Man from Snowy River.

    The book I’m in

    Survive to Fight, by Billy Billingham. This worm is taking refuge in a good action from time to time, while also chewing my way through The Phenomenon of Man by Pierre Teilhard de Chardin.

    Travel tips

    You need a good thick book to protect you from the elements. It was cold in the high country, even in the middle of an Australian summer.

    The photos

    Me, the Worm from Snowy River, at dawn on the window sill of Craig’s Hut:

    The hut was first built in 1981 for the movie, The Man from Snowy River, which was released in 1982. The movie is an Australian classic, based on a poem by Banjo Patterson. The poem, in turn, is based on the experiences of a real-life stockman named Jack Riley, with inspiration drawn from other mountain stockmen too. The hut was named for Jim Craig, the fictional main character of the movie.

    As a temporary replica of a cattleman’s shelter created specifically for the movie, the first version of the hut wasn’t built to last. But it became a popular destination in the Victorian High Country trails. When the structure started to fall apart, it was rebuilt by volunteers at the initiative of the four-wheel driving community: the Mansfield Alpine 4WD Club. The new version of the hut was re-opened to the public in 1993.

    In 1996, a bush fire destroyed the second version of the hut, and it was rebuilt by the local council and environmental organisations.

    The hut stands high on a hill top in Clear Hills, in the Mount Buller region, overlooking the Alpine Ranges. The views are pretty decent. Hues and accents change throughout the day. Sunset and sunrise are especially gorgeous. This picture was taken from the veranda of the hut at dawn:

    Inside Craig’s Hut:

    Our route

    Take note that the roads are closed for part of the year, due to snow and ice. You can’t get there by vehicle between June and November. The exact dates vary, depending on the weather. Before setting out, check the Parks Victoria web site for seasonal road closures.

    We left the small town of Whitfield in convoy shortly after 9am and followed various tracks, primarily Burnt Top Track and Black Landing Road, to Craig’s Hut. It was easy, scenic driving for four-wheel-drive enthusiasts.

    In mid morning, we took a break from driving to do the short walk (a few hundred metres) to Paradise Falls:

    The trails in the Victorian High Country are surprisingly well supplied with dunnies. Dunny? That’s what the Aussies call a toilet! This one was near the walking track to Paradise Falls:

    Here’s a taste of Burnt Top Track:

    We crossed the King River at Pineapple Flat. The water level was low and, apart from a slightly tricky entry into the gully that leads into the river, the crossing was easy:

    We reached Craig’s Hut at around 4:30pm.

    Camping

    We camped overnight in the campground near Craig’s Hut. The area was beautiful, tranquil, and, at an elevation of 1,450 metres, cold. The TC, bless her woollen socks, was shivering and shaking in her tent. Inside her sleeping bag, she wore thick socks, leggings, two shirts, two fleece jackets, a large padded jacket, and gloves.

    Let’s finish off with one more photo of Craig’s Hut, taken soon after our arrival in the late afternoon:


  • Billy Goat Bluff Track, VIC

    In this post: Billy Goat Bluff Track near Dargo in Victoria, Australia, plus some lovely country and a river to camp beside.

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC recently spent a week and a half in the Victorian High Country, a landscape of mountains and valleys in the state of Victoria, Australia. On 22 February, we tackled a well-known four-wheel driving track in the area: Billy Goat Bluff Track.

    The book I’m in

    Jericho’s Dead by William Hussey. This is the second in a series about Scott Jericho, an ex police detective and member of a fairground family who seems to attract serial killers and other nasties. Highly recommended.

    Recommended accommodation

    Black Snake Creek campground on the banks of Wonangatta River.

    Travel tips

    Although Billy Goat Bluff track has been graded and is relatively easy driving, many of the tracks in the Dargo area are challenging. Pick your route to and from Billy Goat Bluff with care.

    The photos

    Crawling the tracks is what yours truly does best. So, let’s start with a video of part of Billy Goat Bluff Track, to give you and idea of what it’s like. The track was graded in late 2024. When we were there in February 2025, the driving was easy. But beware the steep drop-offs on both sides!

    The TC, bless her cotton socks, talks about the Billy Goat Gruff track in the video. It’s actually Billy Goat Bluff. Rumour has it that the track got its name because to drive it, you need to be as agile as a goat.

    The track features a steep gradient of 27%, climbing 1,200 metres over a distance of 7 kilometres.

    The TC’s water bottle compressed as if it had been in a jet plane:

    How long does it take? It took us less than two hours to drive the track. We started the track itself at soon after 9am and finished before 11am, with plenty of stops for photographs.

    Here’s our convoy on the infamous ridge. Those edges give little margin for error or for passing an oncoming vehicle:

    All round us, the peaks and valleys of the high country conspired to make us feel like insignificant worms on the face of the universe (oh wait, I am a worm, and decidedly not insignificant!):

    Getting there: On the night before the trail, we camped at Black Snake Creek campground on the banks of the Wonangatta River:

    We left the campground at around 8.30am and followed Wonangatta Road northwards for half an hour or so, winding along the banks of the Wonangatta River until we joined Billy Goat Bluff Track.

    The lovely Kingwill Bridge on Wonangatta Road:

    In case your appetite for Billy Goat Bluff isn’t yet satiated:

    After finishing Billy Goat Bluff, we took a short detour to visit Pinnacles Lookout in the Miowera region:

    There I met my cousin Dilly the Butterfly:

    We then explored some of the tracks around Dargo, which turned out to be much more of an adventure than planned. We helped some folks out of trouble, which meant that we were still on the tracks late at night:

    We found our way safely to Castleburn Creek campground at midnight, rounding off another day of happy travelling.

    Speaking to the locals in Dargo the next day, we heard that many people find themselves in trouble on these tracks. The maps are not up to date, and as a result people don’t know what’s in store for them. Take care out there on the tracks, make sure you’re in a capable vehicle, and travel with some mates to help if you do run into a tricky situation.

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  • Dixons Long Point Crossing 4WD

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me, the TC, and Beetle the Jeep spent a night in the historic town of Hill End, New South Wales. Early the next morning, we set out to cross the Macquarie River at the well-known Dixons Long Point Crossing.

    The book I’m in

    Meru, by S.B. Divya. Excellent SciFi about a human and an alloy who fall in love, and about an experiment with human life on planet Meru. Alloys are post-human beings who share human and AI genes.

    Travel tips

    You’ll need a 4WD vehicle to complete this trip, because of the river crossing. It’s also good to be aware that the Macquarie River is a large river that can carry a significant volume of water after rain. It can be deep and the current can be strong enough to wash away cars and caravans. Always check the conditions before attempting the crossing.

    The photos

    Me at Dixons Long Point Crossing:

    It’s a trifle tricky to decide which line to take when crossing the river. We were driving from the Hill End side to the Bathurst side. The TC had watched several videos of other people making the crossing. The consensus of opinion seems to be that you should cross on the rougher side of the rocks, not the smooth side. Basically, follow the line between the two rows of rocks. That’s what we did. It was bumpy but fun, and the river level was low at the time we made the crossing.

    On the other side, the TC, bless her cotton socks, struck up a conversation with a man who looked as if he knew the area. He said that originally, the intended line was on the smooth side of the rocks, where a causeway had been built. But then a flood moved most of the rocks down off the causeway, which resulted in a deep hole at one end. The hole is about the length of many vehicles’ wheelbase, so you can get stuck, especially if the vehicle doesn’t have much clearance. The rougher line is now the recommended route, although it’s basically bedrock.

    Let’s back up, now that you’ve seen the crossing, and start at the beginning of the day’s trip…

    A night in Hill End

    Before starting the drive to Dixons Long Point, we spent the night at Hill End Lodge:

    The photo shows the reception area and restaurant of the lodge. We stayed in one of the cabins nearby. Early the next morning, the TC went for a stroll and came across a group of kangaroos. Most of them fled, but a big male stayed to keep watch, along with couple of others, one of which was a female with a joey in her pouch:

    The TC, wise soul, decided that discretion is the better part of valour, and altered direction to keep away from the roos.

    After breakfast, we paid a quick visit to the town of Hill end:

    The Royal Hotel is another good option for an overnight stay in the town:

    Golden Gully

    We headed north up Hill End Road towards Ullamulla Road, and came across the enchanting Golden Gully:

    Holes small and large pepper the eroded walls of the canyon. Many of them lead to shafts and tunnels dug by hopeful gold miners in the 1850s. The gold in this area is alluvial, washed down in several creeks that feed into the gully.

    You can walk down the gully to the point where a sign warns of danger:

    Ullamulla Road and Dixons Long Point

    Me at the junction of Hill End Road and Ullamulla Road:

    A sign warns of the nature of the upcoming crossing:

    The road itself is an easy drive:

    A sheep with a new-born lamb greeted us:

    The next video shows the descent towards Dixons Long Point Crossing, on the Hill End side. At about 30 seconds into the video, a wallaby hops across the track in front of the car:

    We stopped for a photo opp when we reached the water:


  • Coxs River & Six Foot Track 4WD

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me, the TC, and Janet the Jeep recently drove across country in the Blue Mountains area, from Little Hartley to the Jenolan area. The trip included Coxs River Road, Ganbenang Road, Cullenbenbong Road, Glen Chee Road, Six Foot Track, and Black Range Road.

    The book I’m in

    No Time for Goodbye, by Linwood Barclay. A psychological drama packed with plot twists. Much like a 4WD road.

    Travel tips

    You’ll need a 4WD vehicle for most of this trip. The first part, before the turnoff to Coxs River camping ground, is fine for 2WD vehicles. But you’ll need a 4WD to get down to the camp site, and then back up again to follow the rest of Glen Chee Road.

    The photos

    Me at Coxs River camp ground:

    The TC, bless her woollen mittens, decided to focus on the river rather than on yours truly. Sometimes I disagree with her choices.

    We started our trip at the Little Hartley end of Coxs River road. The first hour or so is a lovely, meandering route, part sealed and part dirt. The views are of rolling hills and dales. And cows. This shot is from a trip last year:

    At the camp ground, Coxs River is wide and rippling:

    Looking in the other direction, the river widens out into tranquil pools:

    We took a walk from the camp ground towards Bowtells Swing Bridge. This is a 20-minute walk through the forest, with views of the river gorge on one side:

    Bowtells Swing Bridge is currently closed for maintenance. It’s been so for a long while: years. This worm has never seen it open. Crossing the bridge could be a wild ride, swinging over a deep river canyon:

    If you turn left when you come up the road from the camp ground, you enter the 4WD-only part of Glen Chee Road:

    See what it’s like driving Glen Chee Road near Pass Gully. This clip shows some track erosion, but it’s an easy drive when dry:

    Further along Glen Chee Road, descending towards Alum Creek Camping Ground:

    The road leads through pretty forest:

    Despite it being mid winter when we made this trip, yellow flowers were sprinkled across the bushland:

    In the next video, we cross Little River. This is one of several river crossings on the trip. They’re not hard, provided the river is low and your vehicle is a capable 4WD.


  • Old Grafton Road and Dalmorton Tunnel, NSW

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me, the TC, and Janet the Jeep took the long way round from Sydney to Brisbane, to explore a bit of the inland countryside. On the second day of our trip, we drove from Glen Innes to Grafton via Old Grafton Road and Old Glen Innes Road. This is a beautiful route. The road is partly sealed (bitumen) and partly unsealed (gravel and clay). It’s in good nick all the way from Glen Innes to Grafton.

    Read on to get a feel for this trip.

    The book I’m in

    Force of Nature, by Jane Harper. A book that starts well and gets better and better.

    Travel tips

    It’s most comfortable to travel from Glen Innes to Grafton, rather than in the opposite direction. The road is narrow, the edges unguarded, and the side falls away steeply along much of the way. If you’re on the side that drops off, it can be uncomfortable when you meet a vehicle coming towards you.

    Recommended accommodation

    Apartments on Grey in Glen Innes. Warm and cosy, with everything you need for a comfortable stay.

    The photos

    Me at the turnoff to Old Grafton Road on Gwydir Highway:

    The first part of Old Grafton Road is sealed (bitumen). But don’t be fooled! It’s scenic — meaning, it’s steep, winding, and narrow. This video gives a taste of the road. Part way through (at the time stamp of 40 seconds to 1:03), the TC stopped the Jeep to take a shot of three wallabies on the side of the road:

    The road descends swiftly to cross Diehard Creek:

    A helpful soul has posted warning signs along the road:

    Mann River Nature Reserve is a pretty spot to take a breather:

    Janet the Jeep was raring to go when Old Grafton Road changed to dirt:

    At times, you’ll come across an entrance to a family farm:

    Here’s another homestead, further along the route:

    Much of the road runs alongside Boyd River. Sometimes it’s at the level of the water, sometimes high above. It’s narrow and slippery — take care!

    Just around a corner, you’ll come across Dalmorton Tunnel. The tunnel is 20 metres long, 4 metres wide, and has a height clearance of 3.2 metres.

    Me at Dalmorton Tunnel:

    The tunnel was built in the 1860s by civilian contractors. (Some reports say that convicts built it, but that’s probably apocryphal.) The tunnel was blasted out of solid rock, then trimmed with hand tools. (Again, some reports say it was “hand hewn”, but that’s probably not completely accurate either.)

    Here’s Janet making her way through the tunnel, hogging the limelight as she does:

    Boyd River offers some picturesque spots for coffee and a photo:

    Next is a cow closeup, for people who like cows. This worm avoids them, as they’re apt to put those big feet where they’re not wanted. But the TC, bless her cotton socks, liked the way this cow was cosying up to the pink bush:

    On Old Glen Innes Road, a wide, low bridge crosses the Nymboida River:

    Scattered around, in the water and on land, are sections of a huge pipe, filled with concrete:

    Perhaps the pipes formed the scaffolding of a previous bridge? Who knows:

    The TC, bless her woollen mittens, is keen to finish off with some shots of the road. So, for those enthusiastic road-farers out there:

    See you on the road!


  • Pinnacle Rocks in Dark Corner NSW

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC took Janet the Jeep out to the Pinnacle Rocks in the Blue Mountains area, west of Sydney, Australia. The drive takes you from Capertee down the Pinnacle Rocks Firetrail, through Turon National Park, on into the forests of Dark Corner, finishing up in Sunny Corner.

    The drive is beautiful, and not without some challenges!

    The book I’m in

    The Island of Missing Trees, by Elif Shafak. I’ve just started this book (I’m on page 20) and it’s already gripped me tight.

    Travel tips

    To do this drive, you need a capable 4WD car and preferably at least one other car on the trip. It can be useful to have someone to pull you out of a bog or help you get up a steep, rutted hill.

    Check the river levels before you go. The trail crosses the Turon River several times, and the river levels can rise significantly after heavy rain.

    Check for park closures and bush fires too. The NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service web site is useful.

    The photos

    Me with Janet the Jeep at Pinnacle Rocks:

    From the top of the Pinnacle Rocks, you have a panoramic view of the valleys and forests all round. The next shot shows just the flat area at the top of the hill, as seen from the top of the rock:

    The first part of the drive, from Capertee to the Pinnacle Rocks, is scenic and fairly easy. There’s one rubbly hill climb that can be a bit of a challenge until you find the right “line”, as seasoned four-wheel-drivers say.

    The trail winds along the beautiful Turon River. This shot is from a previous trip (July 2023), when we explored one of the camping areas next to the river:

    The Turon River was in a tranquil mood this week. Experiences vary. It’s worth checking the river levels before you go!

    Parts of the drive wind along a ridge, with valleys dropping away on both sides. At times, you’re surrounded by white-trunked gums. Depending on the time of year, yellow or white flowers cover the bush. The next photo is from another trip along the same trail, in August last year:

    Kangaroos and wallabies stopped to watch us, before bounding away. There were several youngsters in this group:

    After the Pinnacle Rocks, things get more interesting, especially if you take the longer route down to Sunny Corner rather than the short route to Portland.

    At several points along the trail, you’ll encounter bogs. Some of them are harmless, others are deep, sticky, and smelly. The trouble is, it’s hard to know which is which just by looking at them! On a previous trip, we had one vehicle completely bogged and needing to be pulled out. And Janet was very nearly bogged once too, but managed to extricate herself by some quick wheel jiggling and reversing.

    This video shows one of the bogs where we didn’t get stuck!

    Towards the end of the trail is a fun section of “wombat holes”. These are dips and humps created by water erosion, that make the car seesaw from side to side. Janet attacked the wombat holes with gusto and enjoyed the experience immensely:

    The descent into the last creek crossing in particular is quite steep and rutted. It can be very slippery when wet. We took it slowly, with someone outside the car to “spot” the way for us.

    The climb out of the same creek is quite steep too. It’s rocky and a bit tricky. Janet made it easily, after a slight adjustment in direction half way up. Other cars, those with longer wheel bases, found it a little more difficult, but everyone got up the hill without needing a winch!


  • Roads of the Outback: a collage

    This is the blog of Mark Wordsworm, the travelling worm. I’m a 40-year-old bookmark (give or take a few years) and I proudly boast my own Hallmark serial number, 95 HBM 80-1. You’ll probably want to read all about me and my Travelling Companion (the TC).

    Today’s travel notes

    Me and the TC recently took our first extended trip into the Australian Outback. My previous posts describe the sights at White Cliffs, Lake Mungo, and more. This post is slightly different: it focuses on the roads. If you’re thinking of making this trip yourself, this collage gives you an idea of what to expect.

    In total, we travelled approximately 2,850 km (1,770 miles). We started in Sydney on day one, passing through Dubbo to Nyngan. On day two, we drove from Nyngan via Cobar and Wilcannia to White Cliffs. Day three took us through the Willandra Lakes Region to Mungo National Park. On day four, we explored the park. On day five, we started our trip back towards Sydney, stopping overnight in Cowra. Day six saw us arriving back in Sydney in time for a late lunch.

    The book I’m in

    Where Song Began, by Tim Low. A telling of the origins on the Australian continent of all the world’s songbirds, rich in detail and convincingly told.

    Travel tips

    Some parts of the Outback are far from anywhere else. Take supplies of food, water, fuel for your vehicle, and warm clothes. If possible, travel in a convoy of at least two vehicles and take a personal locator beacon (PLB).

    The photos

    Heading west from Sydney towards Cobar, the roadside alternates between red dirt and silver grass:

    Opal Miner’s Way, on the way to White Cliffs:

    Garnpung Lake Road and Ivanhoe Road, Pan Ban:

    Garnpang Road, entering Mungo National Park and later with the Lake Garnpang sign:

    Mungo National Park, approaching the Walls of China:

    On the self-guided drive in Mungo National Park:

    Entering Lake Mungo, a lake bed that’s been dry for more than ten thousand years:

    More Lake Mungo road scenes:

    Leaving Mungo National Park and Arumpo:

    Sturt Highway, with cotton clouds and a cotton lining left by the road trains:

    Getting close to home, on Murrumbidgee River Road and Mid Western Highway:

    That’s all for today, folks.